General Wine Info

 The U.S. tendency to call wines by grape types (Cabernet, Chardonnay, etc.) is catching on in the rest of the world (Chile, Australia, etc.) for better of for worse.  Historically, wines are named by winery within a region (Bordeaux, Burgundy).

The basis of the wine world as we know it is the three “noble” grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  All other wines are essentially attempting to emulate the great wines of Bordeaux (Cabernet) or Burgundy (Pinot Noir…red, Chardonnay.. white).  If one focuses on these three grapes initially, other styles fall into place.

 A server has to know what wines they like personally, and ask customers what wines they have enjoyed in the past.  It’s hard to know a whole list well.  Choose a few you can recommend and be knowledgeable about. Don’t make things up. If you don’t know, find someone who does.  A server always carries a corkscrew, and practices opening bottles until they are comfortable in front of customers.

 Cabernet Sauvignon    Usually referred to by customers as “cabernet” is the most important grape of the Bordeaux region of France, California (Napa and Sonoma especially) and eastern Washington. It yields big red wines of beauty and depth.  It develops ripe concentration with a lot of black current (cassis) flavors. It can be minty, herbaceous, euchalyptus or have flavors of berry fruits.  Astringent when young, the wines soften as they age.  The puckery, leathery feel is tannic acid, which most neophyte wine drinkers find difficult, and most veterans love.  The famous names of Bordeaux, the first growths, etc. ( a whole lesson itself) are mostly cabernet.  The famous wines of Napa are mostly Cabernet.  Most cabernets are blended with some merlot to soften the wine at a younger age.  The great growths of Bordeaux actually are mostly cabernet, with some merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petite verdot.

 Pinot Noir     Pinot Noir is the basic red wine of the Burgundy region of France.  It is also the basic red wine of Oregon.  As stated at the beginning, here in Oregon we name wines after grapes.  In Burgundy, the wines are named after places.  If it says “Burgundy” somewhere on the label of a red French wine, it is a Pinot Noir.   Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are white strains of the same family of grapes.  Oregon Pinot Noirs are very dependent on vintage.  Some years make big full wines, rainy harvests however, result in thin-flavored, simple wines.  Oregon has had more good weather in the last ten years.  Call it global warming or whatever, but it’s possible that in 40 years Oregon will grow Cabernet and California will be a desert! Richness, complexity and velvety texture are the hallmarks of pinot noir. The good ones come from vineyards with a low yield of grapes per acre, thus making the wines inherently expensive. Cool climates, especially hillsides with limestone soils are best. The wines are described as having a lot of berry fruit, sometimes even strawberry, more likely raspberry, blackberry or even black cherry.  The naturally high acidity of Pinot noir makes these grapes especially good with meals, as acidity tends to cleanse the palate, making each bite of food taste as good as the first.  Pinot noir is also used as one of the grapes in Champagnes or sparkling wines.

Chardonnay    Far and away the most popular white wine in America, Chardonnay is originally the white grape of the Burgundy region of France.  In some ways, Chardonnay is responsible for the popularity of wine in the U.S.  It is a wine that is relatively neutral and innoculous if done simply, yet provides an excellent palate for the artistic winemaker to play with.  Chardonnay accepts oak, malolactic fermentation, a degree a sweetness if desired, whatever the winemaker likes.  Therefore, there are a lot of variations in the market all called Chardonnay… The best are fruity, maybe appley, with good depth and intensity. Small oak barrels are usually used for aging to increase complexity. Some are even fermented in the barrels. The best can be fat, rich, full of fruit with ripe flavors and complex oak tones. There is another style that is less fat and more acidic and lean.  These wines are usually easier to drink and go well with lighter foods.  Chardonnay did not do well in Oregon for a number of years.  However, winemakers eventually figured out that they had used a clone of the grape unsuited for our climate.  Many acres have been replanted with a “Dijon” clone, which is really improving local chards.

Merlot    30 years ago, merlot was seldom seen on its own.  It was basically a blending grape to soften cabernet.  However, California winemakers recognized that many American palates wanted a softer, fruitier red.  This recognition changed drinking patterns, and lifted consumption of red wine.  Merlot might be the most popular red now, and sells more wines by the glass than cabernet.  Most are medium deep to dark in color with herbal aromas somewhat similar to cabernet.  Tannins are softer and the texture more supple.  I believe the term “velvet glove on an iron fist” was coined to describe merlot.  The wines can be rich and complex and are prized by customers.  Veterans often started with merlot and moved on to cabernet at some point.

 Zinfandel    Viticulturalists searched for the origins of this grape.  Used as the original grape by all the early wineries in California, this grape is widely planted there.  It is now believed to be the same grape as Primotivo in Italy.  Zinfandel can get really ripe in warmer weather areas, resulting in higher sugar levels, then high alcohol levels. Full bodied, intense wines with high tannin levels, zinfandel has berry flavors and a black pepper overtone.  A white zinfandel is a zinfandel which has had the juice run off immediately after crushing, and then fermented like a white wine.  As wine gets its color from the skins, white zin has little color due to minimal skin contact.

Pinot Gris is now the primary white wine of Oregon.  Called Pinot Grigio in Italy, sometimes tokay in Europe.  As recently as 15 years ago, there was very little sold in the U.S.  However, as a fruitier, easier drinking wine than Chardonnay, it appeals to a large audience.  Most have no oak, some green apple flavors, and disappear from the glass quickly. We now sell more Pinot Gris by the glass than Chardonnay.

 Syrah is the fastest growing varietal in Washington.  Called a shiraz in Australia, this is the primary grape of the Rhone region of France.  Big with white pepper notes.

 Riesling is growing in popularity, and comes in many styles from very sweet to dry.  This is the primary grape of Germany and Alsace.

Other wines of note come from Sauvignon blanc, gewurztraminer,  chenin blanc and a host of other grapes.